Morimoto: The New Art of Japanese Cooking is a beautifully designed cookbook. With lavish sushi presentations, action shots of Morimoto cooking, and numerous money shots of all of the dishes, the book is exquisite with its simple beauty. Many of the recipes are complicated and precise: Squid Ink-Salmon Gnocchi or Crispy Duck with Port Wine Reduction and Red Miso Sauce (this recipe requires making foie gras croissants). There is a section titled “Recipes to Contemplate” (with ingredients such as blowfish, abalone, and sea urchin) that hints at Morimoto’s sense of humor.
When I went to see Morimoto speak at the FLP, I was excited to walk into the auditorium and see a small kitchen station. He arrived on stage with his sous chef and immediately entertained. His fierce appearance in photographs seems to contradict his persona on stage. Every other line was a punch line and he is quite aware that he is there to promote is many products. He quickly got started with cooking. He prepared a Tuna Pizza, which looks like one of the more simpler recipes in his book. It took him only about ten minutes (with everything already prepped – we were at the library) and it looked good enough to eat. However, I can only hope that he gave the pizza to someone after the reading; it would be very disappointing to see a very expensive piece of tuna go to waste. He then took questions (with his chef de cuisine to help interpret) and I was surprised to hear his thoughts on TV, which he hates. Someone asked about Iron Chef, which he also hates and quickly added that he also loves. The show requires a lot of prep work and they only get so many hints about the secret ingredient. There is great pressure on the Iron Chefs to create new dishes for each show. At this point in his career, he added, he does not need to create new dishes so often.
Morimoto’s eponymous restaurant sits inconspicuously on Chestnut street. Once recognized, it’s smooth facade and translucent florescent green doors do begin to contrast the abandoned or reconstructed storefronts. There’s a deli or two on the block and a karate studio shares the building. I have yet to eat at Morimoto but I pass the restaurant almost everyday on my way to work and each time I do, those green doors tempt me to consider spending at least half of a paycheck on what I will assume would be one of the best meals I would ever have. Since I haven’t given into temptation (the sushi is always at market price – from Tokyo – and the wagyu is twenty dollars an ounce – with a six oz. minimum), I have to resort to the cheap version of food porn – the cookbook.